• Part 1: Planning & Pre-Cruise Athens - September 28-October 1, 2022
• Part 2: Embarking Norwegian Jade, Ephesus & Patmos - October 2-3, 2022
• Part 3: Rhodes & Mykonos - October 4-5, 2022
• Part 4: Argostoli & Corfu - October 6-7, 2022
• Part 5: Santorini & Disembarkation - October 8-9, 2022
• Part 6: Prague: Arrival, The Augustine & Old Town - October 9-10, 2022
• Part 7: Prague Castle, Cold War History, & Musical Evenings - October 11-14, 2022
• Part 8: Barcelona: From the Vltava to the Mediterranean - October 14-15, 2022
• Part 9: Embarking Valiant Lady, Ibiza & Day at Sea - October 16-18, 2022
• Part 10: Virgin Voyages: Malaga Heights & Madeira Green - October 19-21, 2022
• Part 11: Virgin Voyages: Crossing the Atlantic & Miami Arrival - October 22-30, 2022 (Coming Soon)

From the Aegean to the Vltava

Aegean Business Lounge

Before our non-stop flight to Prague, we spent some time in the Aegean Business Lounge. The space offered a substantial selection of refreshments to tide us over, including various sandwiches, a self-serve bar, and traditional Greek sesame rings (koulouri).

I kept my grazing to a minimum, as I knew we’d be served a full meal during the two-hour and forty-minute flight.

The Mysterious Onboard Apology

Upon boarding the aircraft, we were handed a letter apologizing for a “miss in service.” Curiously, it included a voucher for a free business class flight to anywhere Aegean flies, valid for one year. I couldn’t actually spot anything wrong with the service, and our departure was only delayed by a few minutes, so the gesture was as unexpected as it was generous. Though, it was mostly useless to us, having no plans to return to Greece within the year.

Aegean’s business class uses a configuration similar to British Airways’ Club Europe, where the middle seat of a standard three-seat coach row is blocked off to provide more personal space.

The onboard dining was impressive for a relatively short flight. After browsing the food and wine menus, I selected the sea bream entrée. The meal concluded with coffee and a piece of chocolate.

Arriving at The Augustine

After landing in Prague, we took a Welcome Pickups ride to our hotel, The Augustine. The driver struggled a bit with the navigation; the Malá Strana district is a maze of narrow one-way streets, which required a few u-turns before we finally arrived.

The hotel is situated within a 13th-century monastery, and the public areas retain much of that historic, vaulted architecture. In contrast, the guest rooms are contemporary and comfortably appointed. Check-in was efficient, and we were welcomed with a glass of champagne and the news of a complimentary upgrade to a junior suite.

Waiting in our room was a personalized note outlining our Fine Hotels + Resorts (FHR) benefits. It was accompanied by a very local welcome amenity: pretzels, sausages, and St. Thomas beer—a dark lager brewed specifically for the hotel and only available on property. It was the perfect snack to have on hand as we settled in; in fact, it served as a light dinner after all the eating we had done the past week.

Monastic Luxury in the Junior Suite

The bathroom was particularly well-appointed, continuing the theme of modern luxury within the historic setting. It featured extensive marble decor and high-end fixtures, including a bidet. The layout included both a deep, separate soaking bathtub and a dedicated rain shower. It was a comfortable, spa-like space that felt quite indulgent after a day of travel.

A Monastic Breakfast

The following morning, we headed down for breakfast, which featured a combination of an expansive buffet and a made-to-order a-la-carte menu. The variety of choices was quite comprehensive, offering a nice balance of local European specialties and standard breakfast favorites.

We paired items from the buffet with eggs from the kitchen, which made for a very substantial start to our first full day in the city.

The buffet itself was well-organized with several dedicated stations. The hot sides were consistently replenished, and the fresh fruit and baked goods offered plenty of variety.

There was also a wide array of traditional cold cuts and cheeses, alongside various cereals, yogurts, and even a few small desserts for those looking for something sweet in the morning.

Exploring the Monastery Grounds

Before heading out into the city, we took some time to wander the hotel grounds. The Augustine is a maze of monastic corridors that open up into quiet, peaceful courtyards. It’s an interesting layout that feels very separate from the bustling streets just outside the walls.

From the street, the building is surprisingly plain. You would hardly know there is a luxury hotel inside, which I think adds to the feeling of it being a bit of a hidden sanctuary in Malá Strana.

Crossing the Charles Bridge

Our first task was to cross the famous Charles Bridge. This historic stone bridge, lined with statues of saints, is the main link between Malá Strana and the Old Town. Walking across, we could see several other bridges spanning the Vltava River. At the end of the crossing, the massive Old Town Bridge Tower stands as a gothic gateway into the heart of the city.

Old Town Square and the Astronomical Clock

We continued our walk into the Old Town Square, the historic center of Prague. The square is surrounded by a mix of architectural styles, from the gothic Týn Church to the baroque St. Nicholas Church.

One of the main draws here is the Prague Astronomical Clock (the Orloj), which was first installed in 1410. It’s a remarkable piece of medieval engineering. A large crowd always gathers at the top of the hour to watch the “Walk of the Apostles” and hear the clock chime.

Views from the Old Town Hall

After watching the clock, we made the climb to the top of the Old Town Hall Tower. It’s a bit of an ascent, but it was well worth the effort for the panoramic views of Prague’s red-tiled roofs and narrow alleys. From this height, you can really see why it’s called the “City of a Hundred Spires.”

Afterward, we spent some time wandering the surrounding pedestrian streets, which are filled with shops, cafes, and historic facades.

A Tour of the Klementinum

Next, we took a tour of the Klementinum, a massive historic complex that once served as a Jesuit college. It was a fascinating look into the city’s scientific and academic history.

While we weren’t allowed to enter the Baroque Library Hall itself, we were able to peer in from the doorway. The interior is filled with incredible frescoes and historic globes, looking like something straight out of a movie.

The Klementinum is also famous for its collection of astronomical instruments. We saw several pieces that were used for tracking stars and celestial movements centuries ago. Finally, we made our way to the top of the building, which provided yet another perspective of the city’s landscape.

A Late Lunch at Naše Maso

Because we had started our day with such a substantial breakfast at the hotel, we weren’t ready for lunch until around 2:00 PM. We had seen excellent reviews for Naše Maso, a famous butcher shop and eatery, so we headed there for a bit of a “meat infusion.”

The shop is small and incredibly popular. Interior seating is very limited, so we joined the other patrons standing at the bar tables outside on the sidewalk to enjoy our meal.

The food was every bit as good as the reviews suggested. The quality of the meat is the focus here, and everything we ordered was prepared simply but perfectly. It was a high-energy, casual dining experience that felt like a true local Prague staple.

I’ve heard that Naše Maso offers a special “butcher’s dinner” that is notoriously difficult to reserve. It is definitely something I would like to try on a future visit if the timing aligns.

A Scenic Return and the Waldstein Garden

After our meal, we started the walk back toward Malá Strana to freshen up before our evening plans. The route provided some peaceful views along the Vltava River, offering a different perspective of the city’s bridges and embankments.

Before reaching the monastery, we took a detour through the Waldstein Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada). Part of the Wallenstein Palace complex, this baroque garden is a quiet retreat filled with manicured hedges, bronze statues, and a large pond.

The most striking feature of the garden is the massive “Dripstone Wall” (or Grotto). It has a very unusual, organic texture made of artificial stalactites. If you look closely at the weathered stone, you can sometimes spot hidden faces or animals carved into the limestone-like formations. It was a fascinating and somewhat eerie contrast to the very formal layout of the rest of the garden.

Traditional Dining at U Modré Kachničky

For dinner, we walked to U Modré Kachničky, a restaurant specializing in traditional Czech cuisine and known specifically for their duck dishes. The interior has a nostalgic, old-world feel that seems unchanged by time, which felt very appropriate for the style of food they serve. Making a reservation through their website was a simple process.

We decided on the tasting menu, and Kaleb added the wine flight. When our server—who I believe was the owner—asked why I wasn’t joining in on the wine, I explained that I have a very low tolerance for alcohol. She was incredibly kind and offered me a tiny “sip” of each wine in a fresh glass for every course, free of charge. It was a thoughtful touch that added so much to the evening.

Our meal began with a glass of champagne, fresh bread with butter, and a rich pâté.

The next course was foie gras, followed by the duck. The portioning was perfect—I received the thigh while Kaleb got the drumstick, which is exactly how we usually split a leg anyway.

After a refreshing sorbet intermezzo to cleanse the palate, we were served a tender veal course.

We finished the evening with a lovely chocolate tartlet. It was an excellent introduction to Czech fine dining.

Nighttime in Malá Strana

On the walk back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Lennon Wall. Even at night, the colorful graffiti and layers of messages were striking. We took our time wandering back, enjoying the quiet nighttime views of the city as the lights reflected off the river.

Tomorrow, we stay on our side of the river to explore the massive Prague Castle complex and the gothic details of St. Vitus Cathedral…stay tuned!